It is a deceptively beautiful day. Ice caresses the curves of every plant, tree, wire, and shingle I can see. It looks gorgeous, this liquid-diamond coating. But the clouds are dark and low and randomly unleash moments of sleet and ice pebbles. The roads here - small, curving, winding, hilly - are fun ... when you can drive them. Last year I made it through snow and ice, sliding from side to side on the road and down the hills.